Suzuki 55 to 60 horse power zinc

Zinc Outboard Anodes for Suzuki engines
23.99 USD

Zinc Outboard Anodes for Suzuki engines
13.99 USD

Suzuki Fin 150/200 Hp What is Corrosion?Corrosion is an electrochemical process of deterioration of metal components when exposed to an aqueous environment (water). This occurs both underwater and in the atmosphere. The deterioration is the process of the metal changing into its oxide form. Steel, for example, will degrade (oxidize) back to its natural stable state - rust (iron ore). You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal you must add a third metal. The most common metal is zinc although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode." Zinc is the most common material used. Zinc anodes are not very effective in freshwater and can stop working after only a few months if not made to mil. specifications. It is a good policy to change them regularly, even if they look OK. Remember, if an anode doesn?t wear away it is not working! The aluminum alloy used in anodes is very different from normal aluminum. It includes about 5% zinc and a trace of Indium, which prevents the build up of an oxide layer. Aluminum Anodes last 50% longer and will provide better protection that Zinc. Aluminum anodes can be used in salt and brackish (mix of fresh and salt water) water environments. However in freshwater, due to the increased resistively of the water and reduction of salts, Aluminum and Zinc Anodes will start to passivate, ultimately renders them ineffective. In freshwater it is recommended to use Magnesium Anodes. Magnesium Anodes have a higher driving voltage than Zinc or Aluminum, and therefore are more effective in freshwater. It is not recommended to use Magnesium in saltwater for that very reason.Area and Weight of AnodesThe surface area of the sacrificial anodes determines how much protection (amperage) you get. The weight determines how long they will last. Different anodes have different capacities measured in Amp Hours per Pound. The ratio of the area of the cathodic (protected) surface to the anodic (corroding) surface is critical in galvanic corrosion. The smaller the area where the anode is giving up material, the faster it will take place. Ideally the anodic area should be much bigger than the cathodic area. This ratio can be improved by painting the cathodic surface. Never paint the sacrificial anode.Several Factors Affect Corrosion Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degreeC (55 degrees F). There are va
11.99 USD

Suzuki Fin 150/200 Hp What is Corrosion?Corrosion is an electrochemical process of deterioration of metal components when exposed to an aqueous environment (water). This occurs both underwater and in the atmosphere. The deterioration is the process of the metal changing into its oxide form. Steel, for example, will degrade (oxidize) back to its natural stable state - rust (iron ore). You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal you must add a third metal. The most common metal is zinc although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode." Zinc is the most common material used. Zinc anodes are not very effective in freshwater and can stop working after only a few months if not made to mil. specifications. It is a good policy to change them regularly, even if they look OK. Remember, if an anode doesn?t wear away it is not working! The aluminum alloy used in anodes is very different from normal aluminum. It includes about 5% zinc and a trace of Indium, which prevents the build up of an oxide layer. Aluminum Anodes last 50% longer and will provide better protection that Zinc. Aluminum anodes can be used in salt and brackish (mix of fresh and salt water) water environments. However in freshwater, due to the increased resistively of the water and reduction of salts, Aluminum and Zinc Anodes will start to passivate, ultimately renders them ineffective. In freshwater it is recommended to use Magnesium Anodes. Magnesium Anodes have a higher driving voltage than Zinc or Aluminum, and therefore are more effective in freshwater. It is not recommended to use Magnesium in saltwater for that very reason.Area and Weight of AnodesThe surface area of the sacrificial anodes determines how much protection (amperage) you get. The weight determines how long they will last. Different anodes have different capacities measured in Amp Hours per Pound. The ratio of the area of the cathodic (protected) surface to the anodic (corroding) surface is critical in galvanic corrosion. The smaller the area where the anode is giving up material, the faster it will take place. Ideally the anodic area should be much bigger than the cathodic area. This ratio can be improved by painting the cathodic surface. Never paint the sacrificial anode.Several Factors Affect Corrosion Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degreeC (55 degrees F). There are va
11.99 USD

Suzuki Pl55/140 Hp Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
6.99 USD

Suzuki Pl55/140 Hp Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
6.99 USD

Galvonic Isolator - Unmonitored UL Listed ProSafe 60 A / 30 A Dual Zinc Saver - Galvanic Isolator ProMariner Leads the Marine industry in Galvanic Isolation: which interrupts galvanic current flow with other boats at the dock when your boat is plugged into a shore station power system. ProSafe1 and Deluxe Systems Maintains an AC safety ground and solves the most common cause of corrosion and Protects against Zinc loss. UL tested and listed to the new ABYC A-28 recommendation. This new series provides unmatched performance and capability. The ABYC recommendation requires the galvanic isolator to be automatically self tested and monitored to insure that the isolator is providing galvanic isolation protection and that the AC Green Safety wire (Ground) is aboard your boat from the shore cable. It is also required to that the status is readily apparent to the boat owner. Each Monitored system includes the Galvanic Isolator, the Monitoring Module and a remote display which can be mounted by the AC panel or helm. ProSafe1 & Deluxe solves the most common cause of corrosion and zinc loss and most importantly lets you know if you?re AC Safety ground wire is not connected to your boat.
299.99 USD

Riptide Saltwater Bow Mount Trolling Motors, 55 thru 101 Thrust Saltwater chews up the faint of heart and spits out the pieces. That's why we engineer our Riptide trolling motors so incredibly tough: to give you every advantage against the nasty perils of saltwater. Riptide is simply the toughest, most corrosion-resistant trolling motor ever built - backed by the industry's first three-year warranty. A Lesson in Galvanic Corrosion - Galvanic corrosion is a result of dissimilar metals coming into electrical contact with saltwater. When this occurs, corrosion will attack one of the metal components. The closer two metals are to each other in electrical potential the less the chance of galvanic corrosion. Riptide utilizes the correct proportion of materials (Mild Steel and Aluminum) along with a patented sacrificial zinc anode to protect motor components from galvanic corrosion. Corrosion will attack the zinc anode, protecting the other metallic elements of the motor. Riptide's sacrificial zinc anode is discretely located on the hub of the prop, allowing it to be easily replaced when needed. Further, the anode does not in any way affect the performance of the trolling motor.Advanced Corrosion Protection - Premium grade alloys, including aluminum upper arms, are impervious to rust. Metals undergo a rigid multi-step cleaning process before being anodized or coated with a special zinc dichromate armor plating and e-coat epoxy. Fully Encapsulated Electronics - All control boards are fully encapsulated in marine-grade urethane to permanently seal the circuitry from external elements. The urethane forms an impregnable barrier against the destructive forces of saltwater. AutoPilot - Get unparalleled navigational control and the freedom to catch more fish. Point the motor head in the direction you want to go, activate the AutoPilot button and you're ready to go. Keeps your boat trolling on line, even through heavy wind or chop (on select models). Tilt Twist Tiller - The ultimate in quick access and instant response. Puts natural outboard convenience in the palm of your hand, with greater comfort and control. Available on select models. 3X Steering -Select Riptide hand control models feature our exclusive 3X Steering. Move the Tilt Steering Control just 60 degrees to change the lower unit a full 180. Slight handle adjustments give you ultra-responsive control and ease of handling for sight fishing or when fighting hard-charging fish.Tilt Steering Control - Telescoping handle extends to 21" and features 5 detent settings for maximum comfort and control. Tiller tilts 20 degrees for maximum versatility. Ideal for steering with your knees when the action heats up (select models).Maximizer - Get up to five times longer run time on a single charge. Maximizer technology controls the draw of power at infinitely variable speeds to conserve battery power and extend run time.Bowguard 360? Breakaway Mount - A Minn Kota exclusive, available on select models! Breaks away
939.99 USD

Suzuki Outboard Martyr Anode - Cutdown Skeg Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
7.99 USD

Tear Drop Zinc Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
4.99 USD