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Your search for 'mercury 30 hp EFI fuel filter' generated 4203 results  Page 12 / 421
BioGuard Diesel Fuel Microbiocide/Additive 16oz. Bioguard quickly and effectively kills and prevents the growth of micro-organisms such as bacteria and fungi that cause filter plugging and corrosion of metal surfaces in marine diesel fuel systems. In addition, the advanced formula prevents bacteria from re-growing and breaks-up bacteria caused slime. BioGuard is test proven to be 90% more effective than other products and is specially formulated for hot, humid marine applications. BioGuard is proven effective in as little as 2-3 hours versus 24 to 36 hours recommended by other fuel biocides. 16 oz. E-Z measure bottle treats 480-960 gallons.
19.99 USD
Mercury O/B Zinc Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
8.99 USD
Mercury Button Zinc Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
4.99 USD
Replaceable screw-on type canister filter. Fits the 75/90/115 hp. FourStroke outboard USA 1B366823 and above
12.99 USD
Sierra AquaVue and metal bowl separator filters allow water to be drained from the filter to extend service life. Use the AquaVue bowl for outboard, above deck installations. USCG regulations require the use of the flame resistant metal bowl below deck
69.99 USD
Racor gasoline fuel filter for marine applications the new 490R-RAC-01 fuel filter/water separator with primer pump for all outboard powered vessels. Allows boaters to eliminate the primer bulb in the fuel line A unique and robust diaphragm design offering long life and trouble-free operation Offers ease of use by the customer A cost reduction for the boat builder
139.99 USD
For attaching fuel lines to filters.
5.79 USD
The Series 9000 GPS Interface System combines multiple functions on a single LCD display. Boat speed data is obtained from a GPS with NMEA 0183 output. The direct display of MPG over ground gives the skipper a powerful new tool to set optimum fuel efficiency and determine range with the remaining fuel. SPST switches required for resetting totalizer and displaying MPG data. Twin gas models also incorporate an engine synch indicator SPST switch required for port/stbd data selection
499.99 USD
Rugged, compounded and pliable UV-resistant 3/8" hose; Gas and solvent-resistent Tight O-ring construction for leak-free connections
34.99 USD
The NEW SX series incorporates all of the fully automatic features of these popular SMART TABS, in addition to the rust and corrosion free benefits of molded composite materials. Assembly can be completed in seconds and the installation in a few minutes. The only tools required are a drill with a 3/16" bit and a phillips screw driver. SMART TABS SX provide unequaled performance and durability with no maintenance in fresh or salt water. The system can be specifically tuned to maximize the performance of any powerboat, and TRACKING RIBS have been added to improve handling at higher speeds. The patented SMART TABS are a one of a kind trim and stabilizer system that automatically adjust to the sea conditions, without the need for expensive electric or hydraulic hardware or switches. The system constantly reacts to the water conditions, boat speed, and balance providing remarkable improvements on any boat. Benefits: Smoother and Faster Acceleration (Great for Skiing) 40% less Bow Rise and 35% lower On Plane Speed (Great for Tubing) More Top Speed and No Porpoising or Chine Walking Improves Handling and Smoother Ride in Any Water Improved Fuel Economy (11% + average) Sizes: Nauticus part # SX9510-30: 14' to 17' 20 HP to 35 HP Nauticus part # SX9510-40: 14' to 17' 40 HP to 80 HP Nauticus part # SX9510-60: 15' to 19' 60 HP to 140 HP Nauticus part # SX9510-80: 16' to 20' 150 HP to 225 HP
129.99 USD
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