mercury 30 hp choke wire diagram

Mercury Push-To-Choke (Panel Mount) 3 This push to choke switch is designed for use in many Mercury outboard powered vessels. Glass filled polyester reinforced ignition switch body, tin plated internal contacts, six brass screw terminals. Brass back up nut and black plastic hex face nut. Replaces Mercury # 87-88107 & 87-88107A5. Simply mounts in a 7/8" hole. Rated at 15 amp magneto, 30 amp solenoid and 7 amp choke at 12v DC MP41000Sh. Wt. 1 lb.5/8" Max Dash Thickness
16.99 USD

Ignition Push/Choke With Wire Leads General Push to choke ignition switches are very popular with the OEM's. Made from a heavy duty black plastic for corrosion resistance. Includes two coded keys. Includes all mounting hardware.
26.99 USD

Mercury 4 & 6 inline, 75-150 HP
22.99 USD

Mercury 4 & 6 inline, 75-150 HP
22.99 USD

3 man foldable inflatable boat. Inflates in minutes, folds to fit in any trunk. 5 hp. capacity, makes a great yacht tender or RV companion
999.00 USD

Sea Eagle 14SR Inflatable sport boat. Deluxe Package. Carries 7 adults, 40 HP engine. Double reinforced 19" inflatable tubes.
2249.00 USD

9'6" Four man inflatable fisher/tender. 1000 Denier hull material, quadruple overlap seams Takes up to 8 hp. 3 year warranty
1149.00 USD

10' 6" Inflatable boat Deluxe package. HOlds 5-people, 15 hp. capacity. Rugged 1000 denier fabric, reinforcement layers under hull. Great for yacht tending.
1449.00 USD

Mercury Fin Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
9.99 USD

Mercury Fin Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
13.99 USD