mercury 50 hp EFI manual

Fuel Water Sep/Sensor for V6 Efi 95 &E Water Separating fuel filter with black screw- in sensor.Fits Mercury/ Mariner V-6 EFI outboards 1995 & earlierPart # : 35-18458Q 3Sh. Wt. 1 lb.
25.99 USD

SELOC Marine tune-up and repair manuals provide the most comprehensive, authoritative information available for outboard, inboard and stern-drive engines, as well as personal watercraft. SELOC has been the leading source of how-to information for the marine industry since 1974. Designed and written to serve the needs of the professional mechanic, do-it-yourself boat enthusiast, instructor and student, these manuals are based on actual teardowns done by Seloc s editors/authors in our on-site facility. Step-by-step illustrated keyed procedures guide you through every conceivable job possible, including all adjustments necessary. This manual covers Mercury Outboard, 3-4Cyl., 40-115 HP from 1965-1989. Every manual features: Easy-to-follow, step-by-step, illustrated procedures Hundreds of exploded drawings, photographs and tables Troubleshooting sections Accurate specifications and wiring diagrams covers all Gasoline Engines and Drive Systems. Over 1,400 illustrations. Provides skill level ratings on all procedures and Special Tool icons where applicable. Separate chapters cover: general information tools and equipment boating safety engine tune-up engine disassembly and reassembly fuel system ignition system electrical system cooling system drive unit tilt and trim systems engine specs torque specs maintenance and off-season storage wiring diagrams Published by Seloc Publications. Softcover. Books
37.99 USD

Mercury 4 & 6 inline, 75-150 HP
22.99 USD

Mercury 4 & 6 inline, 75-150 HP
22.99 USD

Change props faster, cheaper, with Quicksilver's modular hubFlo TorQ II modular propellers let you easily switch props, change pitch, change from aluminum to stainless, or replace a bent propeller. They're a direct replacement for the Michigan XHS hub kits. Just remove the old prop and slip on a new one. When large underwater obstruction are encountered, the Delrin sleeve of the Flo-Torq II System is designed to "break away" following impact, ensuring that damage to the engine, engine drive and propeller is kept to a minimum. And better yet, the sleeve can easily be replaced by you! Competing hub systems take longer to break away after impact, increasing the risk of major damage to both the engine and the drive.
41.99 USD

Change props faster, cheaper, with Quicksilver's modular hubFlo TorQ II modular propellers let you easily switch props, change pitch, change from aluminum to stainless, or replace a bent propeller. They're a direct replacement for the Michigan XHS hub kits. Just remove the old prop and slip on a new one. When large underwater obstruction are encountered, the Delrin sleeve of the Flo-Torq II System is designed to "break away" following impact, ensuring that damage to the engine, engine drive and propeller is kept to a minimum. And better yet, the sleeve can easily be replaced by you! Competing hub systems take longer to break away after impact, increasing the risk of major damage to both the engine and the drive.
41.99 USD

Mercury Fin Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
9.99 USD

Mercury Fin Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
13.99 USD

SELOC Marine tune-up and repair manuals provide the most comprehensive, authoritative information available for outboard, inboard and stern-drive engines, as well as personal watercraft. SELOC has been the leading source of how-to information for the marine industry since 1974. Designed and written to serve the needs of the professional mechanic, do-it-yourself boat enthusiast, instructor and student, these manuals are based on actual teardowns done by Seloc s editors/authors in our on-site facility. Step-by-step illustrated keyed procedures guide you through every conceivable job possible, including all adjustments necessary. This manual covers Mercury Outboard engines, 1, 2 cylinder models, 2-40 HP, from 1965-1989. Every manual features: Easy-to-follow, step-by-step, illustrated procedures Hundreds of exploded drawings, photographs and tables Troubleshooting sections Accurate specifications and wiring diagrams covers all Gasoline Engines and Drive Systems. Over 1,400 illustrations. Provides skill level ratings on all procedures and Special Tool icons where applicable. Separate chapters cover: general information tools and equipment boating safety engine tune-up engine disassembly and reassembly fuel system ignition system electrical system cooling system drive unit tilt and trim systems engine specs torque specs maintenance and off-season storage wiring diagrams Published by Seloc Publications. Softcover. Books
37.99 USD

3 man foldable inflatable boat. Inflates in minutes, folds to fit in any trunk. 5 hp. capacity, makes a great yacht tender or RV companion
999.00 USD