mercury 60 hp EFI

A. Trim Tab
16.98 USD

Mercury Push-To-Choke (Panel Mount) 3 This push to choke switch is designed for use in many Mercury outboard powered vessels. Glass filled polyester reinforced ignition switch body, tin plated internal contacts, six brass screw terminals. Brass back up nut and black plastic hex face nut. Replaces Mercury # 87-88107 & 87-88107A5. Simply mounts in a 7/8" hole. Rated at 15 amp magneto, 30 amp solenoid and 7 amp choke at 12v DC MP41000Sh. Wt. 1 lb.5/8" Max Dash Thickness
16.99 USD

Outboard Anodes - Mercury/Force/Mariner
28.99 USD

Mercury 3/8" Barb Female Die Cast Fuel Line Engine And Tank Connector Bayonet Style
14.99 USD

2" Electric Trim Meter Mercury All Gaffrig electric gauges are built for performance. The 100 percent waterproof gauge and anti fog lenses eliminate the chance of water and fog intrusion. Matching florescent UV protected pointers and a red-orange light make this gauges less blinding for night viewing. Includes all non -ferrous mounting hardware, standard cutout size 2 1/16.
39.99 USD

Mercury O/B Zinc Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
8.99 USD

Outboard Anodes - Mercury/Force/Mariner Manufacturer: Canada Metals
29.99 USD

Outboard Anodes - Mercury/Force/Mariner Manufacturer: Canada Metals
15.99 USD

Outboard Anodes - Mercury/Force/Mariner Manufacturer: Canada Metals
13.99 USD

Outboard Anodes - Mercury/Force/Mariner Manufacturer: Canada Metals
14.99 USD