mercury 75 hp 2 stroke mpg

Replacement part for Mercury/mariner Outboard #1395-9022
5.99 USD

Replacement part for Mercury/mariner Outboard #1395-9022
5.99 USD

Replaces 32-80188A 2. Engine side connector (Moeller 033418-10) and tank side (Moeller 033421-10). 3/8" ID hose
45.99 USD

1 Hp De-Icer Your best protection against costly ice damageKasco de-icer water agitators are designed to prevent the formation of damaging ice in marinas and harbors. De-icers come complete for suspended operation from a dock or boat in an either a vertical or angled position. Offers superior protection against ice jacking/lifting and ice expansion. Operate in the summer to create a man-made current to improve water quality problems such as stagnant and dirty water. Use behind docks, sheltered waters and under walkways or other places where wind and current cannot reach. Features 2 hollow braided suspension ropes, stainless steel safety cage for protection against the specially pitched performance propellers, replaceable zinc anode, 25 ft water and oil resistant power cable and corrosion resistant stainless steel housing, a must for salt water operation. Continuous duty 120V operation.
619.99 USD

9'0 RF HP - With accelerated nose and tail rocker, thinner down rails and hard edges in the tail and pulled in outline The HP is a great high performance board for good juicy-wave performance. LENGTH: 9' 274.32 cm NOSE: 16 5/8 40.64 cm MID: 21 3/4 53.34 cm TAIL: 13 3/8 33.02 cm THICK: 2 3/4 5.08 cm VOLUME: 63cc FINS: FCS TECHNOLOGY: Tuflite
900.00 USD

Arsenal 2 Section Ski Rope 75' Two Section rope includes line keeper and finger guards. 12? handle.
29.99 USD

Mercury Fin Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
9.99 USD

Mercury Fin Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
13.99 USD

SELOC Marine tune-up and repair manuals provide the most comprehensive, authoritative information available for outboard, inboard and stern-drive engines, as well as personal watercraft. SELOC has been the leading source of how-to information for the marine industry since 1974. Designed and written to serve the needs of the professional mechanic, do-it-yourself boat enthusiast, instructor and student, these manuals are based on actual teardowns done by Seloc s editors/authors in our on-site facility. Step-by-step illustrated keyed procedures guide you through every conceivable job possible, including all adjustments necessary. This manual Covers all Yamaha Mercury Marine outboards, 2.5-225 h.p., all 4-stroke models from 2995-2004 Every manual features: Easy-to-follow, step-by-step, illustrated procedures Hundreds of exploded drawings, photographs and tables Troubleshooting sections Accurate specifications and wiring diagrams covers all Gasoline Engines and Drive Systems. Over 1,400 illustrations. Provides skill level ratings on all procedures and Special Tool icons where applicable. Separate chapters cover: general information tools and equipment boating safety engine tune-up engine disassembly and reassembly fuel system ignition system electrical system cooling system drive unit tilt and trim systems engine specs torque specs maintenance and off-season storage wiring diagrams Published by Seloc Publications. Softcover. Books
37.99 USD

Water pump impeller for Mercury engines replaces OEM #47-42038Q02
12.99 USD