Kunden Log-In
|
Your search for 'mercury 9,9 hp choke' generated 701 results  Page 5 / 71
Mercury Marine 391-5092 Condenser. Fits MerCruiser V-8 engines with Mallory conventional ignition.
4.77 USD
Mercury Marie 392-6324 Condenser. Fits Ford & GM 4,6, & 9 cylinder Engines with Prestolite conventional ignition.
3.77 USD
Sierra 18-6245 Anode Bolt for Mercury/Marnier Replaces 10-32470 7/16" X 1 1/4" Allen Head Scerw.
3.39 USD
C. Thrust Washer
14.98 USD
A. Trim Tab
16.98 USD
Outboard Anodes - Mercury/Force/Mariner
28.99 USD
Mercury 3/8" Barb Female Die Cast Fuel Line Engine And Tank Connector Bayonet Style
14.99 USD
2" Electric Trim Meter Mercury All Gaffrig electric gauges are built for performance. The 100 percent waterproof gauge and anti fog lenses eliminate the chance of water and fog intrusion. Matching florescent UV protected pointers and a red-orange light make this gauges less blinding for night viewing. Includes all non -ferrous mounting hardware, standard cutout size 2 1/16.
39.99 USD
Change props faster, cheaper, with Quicksilver's modular hubFlo TorQ II modular propellers let you easily switch props, change pitch, change from aluminum to stainless, or replace a bent propeller. They're a direct replacement for the Michigan XHS hub kits. Just remove the old prop and slip on a new one. When large underwater obstruction are encountered, the Delrin sleeve of the Flo-Torq II System is designed to "break away" following impact, ensuring that damage to the engine, engine drive and propeller is kept to a minimum. And better yet, the sleeve can easily be replaced by you! Competing hub systems take longer to break away after impact, increasing the risk of major damage to both the engine and the drive.
39.99 USD
Mercury O/B Zinc Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
8.99 USD
|