yamaha 115 hp outboard flush kit

Outboard Anodes - Mercury/Force/Mariner Manufacturer: Canada Metals
62.99 USD

O-ring for Yamaha outboard
3.49 USD

Everything you need but the outboard engine 6.5-gallon tank, primer bulb, fuel line and a quick connector just fill the tank with gas, attach the quick connector to your outboard and go. All fittings and connectors are built to strict specifications as OEM replacement parts. 8' hose constructed of tough nylon braided inner hose and pliable UV resistant outer hose. Uniflow primer bulb allows maximum fuel passage and internal check valve prevents backflow. Tank (dimensions 21.5"L x 13.75"W x 10"H) Holds full rated capacity with reserve area Meets all USCG and ABYC requirements One year warranty
59.99 USD

Flush Mounting Kit Flush Mounting Kit for the 500-Series Chartplotters and Sounders
19.99 USD

Replaceable screw-on type canister filter. Fits the 75/90/115 hp. FourStroke outboard USA 1B366823 and above
12.99 USD

Replaceable screw-on type canister filters. Fits the 135/150/175/200 hp Verado in-line 4 cylinder outboard
22.99 USD

Outboard Motor Bracket for 2 Stroke Motors Anodized aluminum 4 position bracket is perfect for trolling or auxiliary motors. Handles 7.5 to 20 horsepower outboards up to 115 lbs. Allows outboard to be retracted completely out of the way. Mounting hardware and instructions included.
154.99 USD

Flush Mount Kit for UM525/625 This flush mounting kit makes mounting your radio in a panel or dash quick and easy! Now you can achieve a clean and professional look by yourself without the hassle and expense of custom installation.
12.99 USD

For fresh water hook-up to a Mercury/Mariner engine for running at idle or for flushing of the block. Use care in choosing the correct application
29.99 USD

Yamaha Square 115/200 Hp Boater's World is your Sacrificial Anode Center. We want to make sure engine troubles don't keep you from having fun on the water! No matter where you choose to do your boating, we have all the right products to help take care of your boat. Read this quick overview on how to protect you engine from corrosion!What causes corrosion? Seawater is a good conductor and freshwater a bad conductor, so corrosion is worse in seawater. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".Do's and Don'tsDO change your anode when they are 50 percent corroded DO make sure they make good electrical contact - remove paint and clean the mounting surface.DO protect trim tabs individually (do not bond). Although they are usually made from stainless steel they can still corrode and need sacrificial anodes.DO be sure to use new fasteners on sterndrives - even stainless bolts fail as a result of corrosion.DO keep a sterndrive immersed in the water so that the anodes can work. DON'T use zinc anodes on aluminum outdrivesDON'T paint anodes. They will not work to their full potential!DON'T mix anode types - aluminum anodes will try to protect zinc.DON'T use magnesium anodes on outdrives in salt or brackish water as it will "overprotect" the aluminum.
6.99 USD